The Anne Maria Jagdfeld Collection - The Aesthetics of Photography

“As an auction house in Cologne it is a great honour for us to have been entrusted with this large photography collection from Berlin. The collection was put together with a profound sense of aesthetics and reflects the inspiring character and distinct style of Anne Maria Jagdfeld,” says Markus Eisenbeis, proprietor of Van Ham.

The photography collection of Anne Maria Jagdfeld comprises works from the end of the 19th until the end of the 20th century. Most of the works are black-and-white photographs: icons of photography are complemented by works with a special aesthetic appeal. Thematically the collection reflects the life of the collector: Anne Maria Jagdfeld’s pronounced interest in fashion is evident in numerous iconic works of fashion photography, including photographs by Helmut Newton, Richard Avedon, Irving Penn and Horst P. Horst. On her numerous travels the collector sought inspiration for her hotel projects in other countries and cultures, and so the theme of travel entered the collection as well. Another focus of her collection are portraits of well-known personages from the worlds of art, film and music – a mirror of her keen interest in contemporary aesthetics and iconic representation.

In his photograph Dovima with Elephants from 1955, Richard Avedon presented a fascinating contrast between the elegance of the model Dovima in a flowing dress and the raw physicality of several circus elephants (estimate: €30,000–50,000). Avedon himself commented: “I saw the elephants. . . . . Then all I had to do was find the right dress and I knew that this had the potential for a sort of dream image.” The dress he selected was the first design by 19-year-old Yves Saint Laurent for Dior. The picture marks a turning point in fashion photography – away from static studio productions and towards a more emotional, narrative picture design.

The photograph Woman with Roses on Her Arm by Irving Penn that will be offered was shot in New York in 1950 (estimate: €50,000–70,000). It shows Penn’s wife and muse, Lisa Fonssagrives, one of the great fashion icons of the 20th century, in a composition of perfect calm and grace. Here Penn combines formal strictness and emotional intimacy. With its velvety tonality and extraordinary depth of detail, the platinum palladium print from 1977 emphasizes the timeless quality of the motif. Within Penn’s oeuvre, this picture exemplifies his search for the essence of beauty – a quiet icon that masterfully combines fashion, portrait and art.

The combination of exhibitionism and voyeurism, of intimacy and distance led Helmut Newton frequently to create an image of the femme fatale. This was also the case with the photograph of Catherine Deneuve he shot for Esquire magazine in 1976 (estimate: €15,000–20,000). At first sight it is not clear whether we are looking at a fashion shot or a portrait, which is not unusual for a photo by Newton – he frequently crossed and transcended boundaries between genres with playful ease. The picture’s reduced and abstract style is reminiscent of a classic film noir.

“My name tends to be more closely associated with the comprehensive collection of contemporary Chinese art, which can be seen at the China Club Berlin, among other places. The public at large, on the other hand, is hardly familiar with my photography collection. I started collecting photographs very early on, they have accompanied me especially in my private rooms. By now I have completed this part of my collection. I am pleased to have found in Van Ham a reliable and competent partner for the marketing of my photography collection and trust that other photography aficionados will give it a worthy home”, says Anne Maria Jagdfeld.

During the awarding of the contract, the Philipp Württemberg Art Advisory was involved as consultant. Philipp Württemberg says: “The photography collection of Anne Maria Jagdfeld is remarkable for its aesthetics, its quality, and its size. The choice fell on Van Ham because of its tailor-made auction programme, which gives a broad audience of collectors of any generation and financial background the opportunity to develop and expand their own individual collection focuses.”

The first of three online-only sales with photographs from Anne Maria Jagdfeld’s collection will take place in January 2026. The works to be offered on that occasion will also include iconic pictures by famous photographers, such as Elliot Erwitt, Horst P. Horst and Weegee. Works with an estimated price of up to €1,000 will be offered without limit.

The autumn auction season at Van Ham is marked by large collections in the field of modern and contemporary art. In addition to “The Anne Maria Jagdfeld Collection – The Aesthetics of Photography” and the eminent “A Rhenish Collection – The Collector and His Gallerists”, works formerly owned by the Gallery Thomas will be called up.